Our experience in Bilbao has been enriched by the group of neighbors that we have grown close to over the last two years. They are natives of Euskadi whom we met while watching Athletic Club, just a couple of nights after moving into our apartment. Most evenings we enjoy drinks alongside them at one of the bars on our block. They share recommendations for places to visit [Lekeitio, Durango, Gipuzkoa], help expand our Euskara vocabulary, and ensure that we are taken care of while away from our families.
Most Bilbainos leave the city for the month of August, so we see less of our neighbors over the summer. Some of our “cuadrilla”-mates own apartments across the French border in Pays Basque and vacation there every summer. Before leaving for vacation in 2024 they encouraged us to visit. We considered it, but didn’t move forward with the plans when my health issues arose. But, after a sleepless week during Aste Nagusia, we decided that in 2025 we’d leave Bilbao for the week and join our neighbors in 🇫🇷.
Outings with our “Cuadrilla”
In Bilbao, with the exception of a few fútbol matches, the time we spend with our neighbors is rarely planned. Instead we generally encounter them as we wander in the evenings. We figured that’d also be the case during our trip. We expected that we’d meet-up a couple of times during our stay but otherwise do our own thing. We couldn’t have been more wrong!
On the day that we arrived they called and told us to meet them at the bar below the apartment we’d rented. We then joined them and other folks for dinner that evening. This became a daily occurrence. We’d spend the day on our own, hiking, sitting on the beach [occasionally], and exploring the nearby towns. In the evening we’d receive a call or text, telling us what was on the agenda for the night and where/when to meet them.
Some nights we simply met-up for drinks. One evening we were invited over for dinner on the terraza, including local oysters and homemade tortilla. Other days, including one evening when other “cuadrilla”-mates visited from Bilbao, we joined them in taking the water taxi across the river [and the Spanish border] for pintxos in Hondarribia.
Exploring Pays Basque
Unfortunately the weather was not ideal during our stay. It wasn’t very warm and the skies were generally overcast. Most days it rained. [It wasn’t just zirimiri!] While this isn’t exactly atypical for Euskal Herria, it did limit the time we spent on the beach.
Fortunately, the apartment we rented had a covered terrace where we could enjoy lunch. We also took advantage of the local bus and rail network [and hiking trails!] to explore the region, even when the sun was hidden.
Hendaye
Hendaye is home to a sizable beach and a recreational port with views to the Pyrenees. The waterfront walkways provide nice scenery for a morning run. [Though they were quite crowded compared to our typical Bilbao running routes.]
Outside of town is the Château d’Abbadie, a historic mansion and observatory. We couldn’t get tickets to tour the site, but we did enjoy hiking there and walking through the gardens, admiring the architecture and the views of the Bay of Biscay.
Saint-Jean-de-Luz
Pays Basque’s regional bus, Txix Txak, connects Hendaye and Saint-Jean-de-Luz on two routes. The quicker option runs inland, using a major thoroughfare, while the slower option takes a coastal road with stunning views. On our day trip we took both, making the outbound trip on the faster route and enjoying the vistas on a slower return to Hendaye. In Saint-Jean-de-Luz we visited the market, where we enjoyed oysters at a small bar, before taking advantage of the opportunity provided by a break in the rain to wander along the coast
Hondarribia
We’d previously visited Hondarribia in the spring, during a trip to Donostia, and found it beautiful. While we were enjoying our time in 🇫🇷, we missed pintxos and the more laid-back vibe of Euskadi.
So, on a rare sunny day during our stay, we took the water taxi across the river to spend an afternoon laying on the beach, eating gilda in the bar of a famous hotel, and watching the broadcast of a Trainera [Basque rowing] regatta alongside the locals.
Bayonne
Bayonne, the largest city in Pays Basque, is located inland and can be reached from Hendaye via train. The Carreau des Halles is a typical market with vendors selling meat and produce. Some stalls also offer seats for patrons to enjoy offerings such as cheese and charcuterie alongside a glass of wine. [An activity in which we were happy to partake!] We walked through the historic center before visiting a park located within the old city walls and taking a look at Cathédrale Sainte-Marie.
Biarritz
Biarritz is the best known town in Pays Basque. Unfortunately we visited on a very rainy day, so we couldn’t take advantage of its famous beaches. After visiting the vibrant local markets we enjoyed oysters and clams for lunch on a covered terrace. A downpour began as we made our way to the coastal walkway, so we stopped into Miremonte Patisserie, a famous pastry shop with historic decor, for a basque tart. Fortunately we were eventually gifted with a break in the rain that gave us enough time to wander along the coast, admiring the rock formations, and through the historic [and colorful] Port Vieux.
Summer Plans
Unlike our neighbors, we won’t be traveling for an entire month. But, we do plan to visit Asturias for two weeks in July. [With a trip to Islas Canarias next month, Asturias will be our 16th of Spain’s 17 Autonomous Communities.] We’ll also escape to the coast for the bulk of Aste Nagusia, as we have gotten too old for Las Fiestas!