Directly translated, tarta de queso means cheesecake. However, the style that is available in Euskadi is different from what is served in the United States. To start, tarta de queso does not have a crust. The dessert is composed strictly of the filling. Second, tarta is typically burnt on top but is very creamy in the center, a combination that is achieved by baking it for a short period of time at a high temperature.
I first recall eating tarta de queso in Donostia in 2019. We visited the city during our “travel sabbatical” and took a Basque cooking class with a chef named Lander. While I doubt that I could recreate the dish, with his assistance we produced a delicious tarta, which we enjoyed alongside tortilla and a “risotto” de idiazabal.
Above: The tarta de queso that we prepared in Donostia in 2019.
It would be a while before we’d eat Basque tarta again. After all, we wouldn’t be back in Euskadi for almost four years and I don’t recall eating it on our return trip. In fact, I don’t think we ate tarta again for two months after arriving in Bilbao. Since then, though, I have insisted that we eat it often. [Luckily Eliott, who usually skips dessert, is also a fan!]
Left to Right: Tarta decorated for Athletic Club on the day of the 2024 Copa del Rey final; Bascake, where we first ate tarta in Bilbao last year; An afternoon pick-me-up at Jatera berria
Tarta de Queso Recommendations
While we’ve enjoyed more tarta de queso recently as I did “research” for this post, we don’t eat it with the same frequency as gilda [or pastel de nata in Lisboa]. So, instead of a Power Ranking, I’ll simply share my thoughts on spots in Bilbao where we’ve enjoyed the dessert.
Bar Ledesma and Geltoki: Both of these bars serve tarta AND get the full sports package. We often enjoy a slice alongside a copa while watching La Liga matches.
Casa Rufo: This is probably the most unique tarta we’ve eaten. It’s made with the Basque cheese of idiazabal, which gives it a smokier flavor. I recommend ordering it, even if you don’t have much room for dessert after the txuleton!
Cafe Bar Brasil: They have a nice terrace on which to enjoy a slice of tarta, especially on a Sunday afternoon. Or, if you’re not feeling tarta de queso, they also make a delicious carrot cake, which is another of my favorite desserts.
Left to Right: Tarta at Bar Ledesma during an Athletic Club match; Txuleton at Casa Rufo [it’s hard to save room for dessert after this, but it’s worth it!]; On the terraza at Cafe Bar Brasil
Jatera berria: We’ve stopped here to get tarta and coffee when we need an afternoon boost [including once to wait out a downpour after an Athletic Club match]. At Christmas they sold full tartas to-go, so we bought one for our holiday feast.
Beetle Bar: They serve their tarta with strawberry syrup, which isn’t my favorite. [Though, I noticed that they also have caramel syrup, so I’ll request that next time!] I’ll also always remember having a slice of tarta on their terraza just before receiving our residency renewal resolution.
Bascake: Their tartas are available in flavors, like Oreo, which is unique. This is the first tarta that I recall eating after moving to Bilbao [part of an early birthday celebration before we departed for Las Fallas in Valencia].
Bassk: A bakery based in Donostia, we enjoyed a slice of their tarta during our April trip. They recently opened a storefront in Casco Viejo and I’m sure we’ll be getting it again in Bilbao very soon!
Left to Right: Jatera berria sold full tartas by weight at Christmas; tarta at Beetle Bar; early-birthday Bascake in 2024
No matter how/when you enjoy a slice of tarta de queso [alongside an afternoon coffee, paired with an Athletic Club match, or to cap-off a delicious dinner], this is another dish that cannot be missed on any trip to Euskadi!